1. Precise Measurement Employ
A tape measure to accurately gauge the client’s dimensions. These measurements should encompass the clothing intended to be worn beneath the tailored piece. In the case of women, a meticulously-fitted bra should be the reference point, as different bras can influence the optimal placement of bust darts. Ensure the fullest points of the chest/bust and seat/hips are measured, while the waist should be assessed at the point of natural bending.
2. Optimal Pattern Size Selection
For jacket, coat, and shirt size patterns should be based on the chest/bust measurement, while skirt and trouser patterns should correspond to the waist measurement.
3. Tailor the Pattern for a Custom Fit
Modify the flat pattern to accommodate any body measurements that deviate from the measurements indicated on the pattern envelope. Employ pattern tracing paper to create new pattern components as required. In cases of substantial alterations, utilize muslin fabric to cut out pieces and assemble a trial garment for precise fitting assessment.
4. Ready the Textiles
Acquire the appropriate quantities of fashion fabric, lining, and interfacing in accordance with the chosen pattern and size. In instances where you’ve adjusted the pattern for a larger size, adhere to the yardage and layout guidelines for that specific size. Should your chosen fabric feature a plaid design, secure extra material to accommodate seamless pattern matching at seams. Thoroughly inspect the fabric for any imperfections. Employ pressing or steaming techniques to eliminate wrinkles before beginning the tailoring process.
5. Execute Precise Cutting
Adhere to the designated cutting layout, aligning with the fabric width and chosen size. Secure the tissue pattern onto the fabric using pins or pattern weights to keep it in position. Employ sharp shears exclusively for the cutting process.
6. Marking Every Single Detail
Seasoned dressmakers may require minimal markings for dress assembly, but tailoring demands a higher level of precision. Ensure every notch, dart, dot, roll line, and other crucial markers are meticulously noted. This meticulous marking ensures the precise alignment of numerous components during assembly.
7. Streamline Similar Tasks
To enhance efficiency, prevent unnecessary back-and-forth movement between the ironing board and sewing machine. Address tasks in groups: baste or fuse all interfacing in a single session. Stitch seams until you accumulate a collection ready for pressing.
8. Meticulous Pressing Equals Skillful Stitching
In the realm of successful tailoring, pressing plays a pivotal role. Dedicate attention to acquiring a high-quality steam iron (opt for a substantial one rather than a compact travel version) along with essential tools like a pressing mitt and seam roll. For handling curved seams or confined areas, a tailor’s ham and sleeve board prove invaluable. Employ a press cloth to safeguard fabric from unsightly sheen. Keep in mind: never proceed to sew over an unpressed seam.
9. Adjust Fit During Sewing
Despite meticulous measurements, occasional adjustments might be necessary during the sewing process. As the garment takes shape, conduct fitting sessions to gauge if any seams require slight deepening or pockets need slight repositioning.
10. Embrace Minute Details
Preserve the integrity of a meticulously crafted suit by avoiding pitfalls like subpar button choices or ill-fitting linings. Secure linings using thread chains along the garment seams. Approach the creation of buttonholes with precision and care.