There are many types of hems that can be done in any type of clothes. There are different types of hems but the most basic of hems, is the topstitch hem that is commonly used on a variety of projects including curtains, bedding, slacks, shorts, dresses, skirts, jeans, and outerwear.
Topstitch Hem
Tip: Always press a hem before and after sewing for easy stitching and a clean finish. If you’re concerned that the fold of the hem will indent the face fabric once ironed, use a press cloth.
There are different types of hems but the most basic of hems, is the topstitch hem that is commonly used on a variety of projects including curtains, bedding, slacks, shorts, dresses, skirts, jeans, and outerwear.
The most important hack here is to make sure the rough edge is secured in some way, whether it’s folding it under, cut with a pinked edge, overlock stitched or serged.
Pick your desired length and determine the extra fabric needed for the desired hem-length.
For example, if you’re making a skirt , and you want the skirt bottom to finish at 23”, add 1” for a 1” topstitched hem, or 1 ¼” for a 1” hem with ¼” folded under.
Narrow Hem
Also called babyhem just as common as the topstitch hem, this hem essentially is a top stitch, but with a very narrow fold. This hem is perfect to use for subtle hems that you don’t want to add too much attention to, or delicate fabrics that won’t support a wider hem. This narrow hem is very common used in bridesmaid dresses.
You can accomplish this hem in two different ways : Simply fold the fabric under twice ¼” each time, press and top stitch. or, if the fabric does not cooperate easily with a double fold, edge stitch a wide fold first, trim excess fabric to 1/8”, the fold again to topstitch a ¼” narrow hem.
This technique works really well with alteration hemming since it can easily accommodate excess fabric in the first step. This technique can be used in wedding dresses, bridesmaid dresses
Blind Stitch by Hand
Sometimes hand hemming works better than machine sewing for fabrics that have a lot of movement during sewing, embellished fabrics with sequins or a dimensional design, or plush/lofty fabrics that would show obvious stitches like velvet or minky.
Like the topstitch hem, a very important aspect to this stitch is making sure the edge is finished first- either by serging, overlocking or folding under.
With a hand needle and thread, carefully stitch the hem fabric to the back of the face fabric, by catching just a few threads to secure. Repeat this about every 3/8” along the hemline. The result is virtually an invisible stitch from the front, and a hemming experience that give you control.